You know, the Department of Health grades for New York City restaurants has been with us for over a year now, and I still don't know how we're supposed measure its success or failure. Let's take Per Se for example. It represents the holy grail of restaurants for many who enjoy fine dining, and like all the NYT four star restaurants, they have a grade of A from the DOH. Here's the thing, the DOH does graded and ungraded inspections from time to time, and they did an ungraded inspection of Per Se in December of 2011, and Per Se, which Sam Sifton called, "The best restaurant...